9.22.2010

Armadillo. It's what's for dinner

Now for another installment of Where Your Food Comes From. Although in this installment, we're not talking your average food.

WARNING: you know where this is going... if you're not a fan of such things, skip this one.

Okay, so if you're a regular follower of my snoop blog, by now you've probably read my post on the bull we slaughtered for my friend's wedding last January. You'll know it was a pretty intense process, with the trade-off being that over a hundred people were fed from the death of one animal.

This time it was different. He was the underdog, and with chickens running around justifying their place in the world as the cornerstone of the food chain and making themselves known as only a chicken can (hopping up on the table, knocking over your coffee, shitting in your bed), one felt as though this little guy's life could have been spared. But I digress.

As with most animals killed in El Salvador, I can safely say that it suffered; it's just how we do things here. I'd love to say it was quick and painless, like my rabbits, but it sort of wasn't. He was a fighter. But know that the little guy died a noble death so that a family of six, plus three friends and neighbors, could eat well on El Salvador's national independence day, September 15th.

Alright, let's get on with it, shall we?

So last weekend, my neighbors and I killed a seven pound armadillo and ate it. Not nearly as much a process as killing and prepping the bull, but still one that I found oddly intriguing. Fasten your seatbelts. I took photos...


For starters, they're amazing looking critters. Check him out. Cute little ears, a snouty nose, and of course a fascinating armor shell that was surprisingly warm and flexible, like leather. Thought he'd be more like a turtle.

To kill one, you pretty much break its neck, make a small cut and drain the blood for a good while, occasionally washing it away as it coagulates. One thing I found interesting was that the dogs, normally diving over each other to grab a scrap of whatever Orlando is hacking up, didn't even go near this thing. It must have had such a funky flavor that it spooked even them.




Like defeathering a chicken, you pour boiling water on him and scrape off his scales. They reminded me of fish scales. Almost translucent.




Once he's been scaled, you cut off his head and gut him.






A few hacks to split him in two.




A little salt, some lime, and onto the fire!


Kate's a huge fan of armadillo, or cuzuco as it's called here in the campo.




All in all, kind of awesome. Starting to believe that clichéd saying that everything tastes like chicken.


By the way, as I was writing this post, I googled armadillos and stumbled upon my new favorite animal...

Behold the smaller than your cell phone, semi-endangered Pink Fairy Armadillo of Argentina. Kind of want to carry one in my shirt pocket at all times... and probably eat less armadillos.

9.20.2010

Recently I had a chance to visit one of my volunteers up in his mountain-top community in northern Chalatenango. I remember pausing with him on a ridge and him pointing off into the distance, where a few specks of white poked through the canopy of trees and slowly moving clouds. That's the edge of my community, he said. And we were off.

Hiked for over an hour, almost entirely up. Crossed rivers, ducked under barbed wire, nearly fell off too many cliffs to count. But it was worth it. Clayton's off to a great start and will leave quite the mark on his community when his two years are up.

Early the next day, we hit the trail and hiked through the mountains to Malorie's community, just a hop skip and a jump over the mountains. That's a 30 minute hop, a 45 minute skip, and a 30 minute jump. But her host family is truly amazing and had a feast waiting for us when we arrived. Probably the biggest meal I've eaten in El Salvador. Soup, steak, coffee and quesadillas (sweet bread). I should mention, since it was a special occasion, we weren't eating your average steak. Nope, we were lucky enough to get pelibüey. I'll save you the trip to google translator. Sheep. Don't knock it til you tried it.

Sidenote: there's an unspoken, yet highly respected rule in Peace Corps that when you visit another volunteer's site, you immediately take on strict dietary restrictions, refuse a healthy amount of food you're offered, and speak as much junk spanish as possible. If you haven't picked up yet, this is all to make that volunteer seem like a rockstar, eating everything and dominating the language and culture like Jordan dominated the NBA cerca 1997. Like a jackass, I kind of violated that rule and devoured anything and everything they put in front of me. I did hike through the mountains of Chalate only minutes before! If you're reading this, sorry, chica. The good news is, Malorie is a rockstar volunteer and didn't need much help from me to prove it.

I had some time to kill that night at the hostel, so I put together a quick video of the experience.

Cameraman: Moi
Music: Caetano Veloso - Um Canto de Afoxe Para Bloco do Ile


Ps. Yes I know it's brazilian samba music, but the children's voices in the background reminded me so much of those of kids playing in every dirty, dusty community in this country, I couldn't resist.





9.13.2010

Back in the groove...

... yet wrapping things up.

I feel like this entry could go in any number of directions, so at the very least, I want to begin with a little light comedy, courtesy of one Mr. Aaron "Steve McQueen" Miller.

Buenos Aires Independent Film Festival: Tom Sellecks

With only 48 days left of my 1,000 here in El Salvador, I've come to a strange point in my Peace Corps experience. One that I'm at a loss for words to describe. Don't know why; I knew it was coming.

I'm happy, and overloaded with work, but in a good way, you know? Yet earlier tonight I actually got annoyed, not snapped, just felt a quick pang of peeve pass over me, with a good friend who repeatedly consoled me for what she kept calling my homesickness.

We had been chatting, and I mentioned how it's funny how the things you used to hate take on different meanings under different circumstances. Like how my neighbors' roosters - oh god those awful, goddamn roosters - I will actually miss when I'm no longer here. Yeah, I know. For those of you who've actually had the pleasure of staying at Casa de Cohen in the mountains of northwestern El Salvador, you must be amazed. Those guys probably kept you up or at least scared the shit out of you probably half a dozen times. But yeah, I'll miss hearing those little bastards, and the approaching wave of rooster crows coming from the next community over at 3 am or some other ungodly hour when I should be sleeping and not awake to hear such things.

Maybe what got to me was the dismissive tone of her voice; the way she didn't quite get what I was talking about, nor did it really concern her. Or that she assumed I couldn't wait to get back to the states. I don't know. It might be impossible for any volunteer to really convey how it feels to package up their life of two of three years in a community and move on to supposedly better and brighter things, while leaving their friends and family behind.

Or maybe things were just lost in translation; they often are.

But it's true. That realization that hits all volunteers at some point. That we only get one Peace Corps experience. And mine is just a few short weeks from ending.

9.09.2010

The rum diaries

During Aaron's last few days, we spent our time trying to outrun the rain which, we found out the hard way, is impossible to do.

The killer panoramic views, volcano and waterfall hikes, even the surfing were affected by the rains and general blahness caused by the hurricane.

The good news is, Aaron drinks. And the rain couldn't stop us from pueblo hopping, crashing at chill hostels, and going through bottles of rum like a couple of Australian backpackers flipping through a guidebook to Central America. In the short span of a week, we visited Panama, Guatemala and Nicaragua, over a few cubes of ice and a splash of lime.


Singing in the hurricane. Who needs sun when we can get equally blinded by the mildly hallucinogenic murals of Ataco?


Guns N Roses + Jesus with a dove = gringo confusion.


Aaron quickly got the hang of hitchhiking, the fastest and safest form of travel in El Salvador, and after a brutally humid, jam-packed, vendor filled bus ride to Tacuba, we both looked forward to returning to hanging precariously off the backs of speeding pickup trucks.


A few days at the beach. Sort of like the dessert after one hell of a meal.

9.01.2010

Off to a good start...

In the taxi from the airport.




Aaron's here this week, and as you can see, we're off to a good start...

A night in the capital, a decent amount of nicaraguan rum, and then off to my community.






Aaron buying 2 dollar flip flops in my nearby pueblo.


Prepping the firewood for dinner - bbq rabbit.

Thanks again, Adam, for the shipment of Sweet Baby Ray's!


Taking it all in.


Meeting my neighbors.


And my best bud, Cowboy Carlos.


Enjoying all that the campo has to offer.


It's gonna be a good week.

8.26.2010

A couchsurfer becomes a friend

A year ago, Lauren and I bummed around Guatemala for a week, couchsurfing from town to town, and falling in love with the country that many before us had just as easily fallen in love with.

Through our travels, we ran into a PCV in Huehuetenango named David. We crashed at his place and, over some good Panamanian rum and a heterosexually-shared banana split, got a good rundown of life in Guatemala and the sites and sounds that make the country as special as it is.

Well last week, David repaid the favor. His service is up, and he came down for the week to vagar, as we say. It was a great chance to give him a good taste of la vida salvadoreña.

He took a bunch of photos, too many to post, but here are a few...






He's pretty computer saavy and even put together a short video of us playing in the Juayua waterfalls. So cool.

Cameraman: David
Music: The Wombats - Moving to New York




The Engineers Without Borders folks were back in country and it made for some good times.

8.15.2010

Front page of the Boston Globe!

Chuck sent out an email yesterday with the great news about Steve's event. It covers everything so well, I'm posting it as it is:

Just thought I'd share - yesterday was the Grand Opening of the Steve Saling ALS Residence in Chelsea, MA - and it was covered by the Boston Globe (NY Times). There's an article on the front page of Boston.com (link below) and a short video - the video is under the "Featured Video" section on the front page.

<<< Boston Globe article >>>

One definite highlight was that Stephen Hawking sent a personal recorded message to Steve Saling of congratulations in which he said that he shares Steve Saling's excitement regarding technology... This is a BIG tip of the hat because Stephen Hawking has not typically been a very vocal advocate within the ALS community. Very cool. Also worth noting that Steve spent the entire morning with Governor Deval Patrick and his entire cabinet who convened for their morning session AT STEVE'S place. Shades drawn and state trooper security team in place - pretty wild. Charting the course for how Massachusetts can get behind Steve's plans no doubt....

If any of you would like to send Steve a note of congratulations or leave a voicemail for him, here's his contact info:

Until medicine proves otherwise, technology IS the cure - The ALS Residence Initiative (ALSRI)

STEVEN A. SALING
165 Captains Row, #233
Chelsea, MA 02150

VOICEMAIL
617.381.4213 (voicemail box)

EMAIL
smoothsaling@yahoo.com

FACEBOOK
www.facebook.com/smoothsaling

8.13.2010

Visit to Steve's

In honor of the grand opening of Steve's ALS residence, The Leonard Florence Center for Living, I want to take a minute to write about my visit there back in July.

First off, there are no words to describe it. You really have to go there in person to understand Steve's accomplishments and the possibilities for improvements in the quality of life for ALS patients.

The residence is in Chelsea, which for me, conjures up images of oil tanks and industrial warehouses, most a which you drive over in a few seconds on the Tobin bridge. But Chelsea has another side to it. A calm, quiet side and when you pull up to Steve's residence, you see that side. It's a nice, new building, not unlike a Marriott hotel tucked away in some suburban neighborhood.


When you walk inside, however, you realize it's very much not a Marriott hotel. Everything, and I mean everything, is fully-automated or wired up through infrared sensors, wifi, or bluetooth. This is so the residents can control every element in the facility, from the elevators and doors to their rooms' TVs and window shades. It's remarkable to see it all in action.

Here's Chuckie chatting with a few of the residents in the lobby. Honestly, the place feels more like a swanky hotel than a long-term care facility.


The ALS residence is its own separate wing of the facility. Residents have their own rooms, allowing them the independence they've been accustomed to, yet with the support of a medical staff just down the hall.

Steve's room feels a lot like a condo. He's got a fridge, widescreen TV, couch and a ton of photos up on the wall. It's a relaxing place, and Chuck and I quickly felt at home enough to break out the welcoming gifts...

Here's Steve enjoying a Coors Light, as much as a Coors Light can be enjoyed.


Our buddy Jay also stopped by and dropped off our schwag bags for the ride, courtesy of his company, KIND Bars, which sponsored our team. Pretty awesome that they donated as much as they did towards the ride.


At the helm of Captain Steve's ship. He uses a program called Dasher to write emails, talk, etc. Dasher is a free software program designed in the late 1990s to combine predictive text algorithms and motion-tracking software to form sentences based on cursor movement.


Dasher works by streaming a series of letters down the right-hand side of the screen, sort of like a constantly flowing waterfall. As you move the cursor towards the stream of letters, the program begins to guess what letters or words you might want next, just like the predictive text software on your cell phone, and the letters gently drift towards the cursor. If you pass over the letters, the computer takes it as an approval and they fall in line on the left-hand side of the page. Pretty quickly, you can form sentences that you can cut and paste into emails or choose to have the computer read out loud.

Steve has a reflective sticker on his glasses and an infrared tracking camera set up above his computer screen, which constantly monitors his head movements as if it were his computer's mouse. As his head controls the little arrow on the screen, the camera tracks his movements down to the millimeter, and gives him enough control that he can continue working as a landscape architect or, in the case with Team America, an expert bike jersey designer.


Like Steve says, until medicine proves otherwise, technology is the cure.

8.08.2010

Yep, I'm definitely not in Boston anymore

Woke up yesterday to find this little fucker in my shower...


Thought about doing something cool with him (cambodian style fried tarantula, anyone?) but instead just disposed of him the way I get rid of the majority of creepy crawlies that venture into my house... death by chicken.

8.06.2010

A must see...

Quickly want to tell you guys about an incredible movie I saw a couple days ago.

It's been out for a while, so by now I bet that most of you have already seen it. But just in case, I wanted to clue you in, dear readers, on what is sure to be on the tip of everyone's tongues at next year's Oscars. Frickin amazing.

What the hell am I talking about?

Alright, I'll give you a few hints:

- It plays with our concepts of time and parallel universes...
- Has an aging but well-respected lead actor...
- A decent amount of special effects...
- And is full of suspense and action...

Got it yet? That's right...

Hot Tub Time Machine.























Simply put, a must see.

Oh yeah, I also caught some trippy new flick about dreams within dreams that was also kind of interesting. You should probably see that one too.

7.31.2010

Dogs, dirt, endless sugar cane fields.

Rows of shiny coffee plants, coconut trees, gentle afternoon rains.

Hills dotted with cattle, fruit vendors on every corner, edible flowers.

24 hours back in El Salvador. Yeah, it feels good to be home.

7.27.2010

Prepping for my flight down south

This news clip didn't help calm my fears. Early-warning monkeys, jaguar alarms... brilliant.


Guatemalan Flight's Data-Recording Parrot Holds Clues To Crash