9.22.2010

Armadillo. It's what's for dinner

Now for another installment of Where Your Food Comes From. Although in this installment, we're not talking your average food.

WARNING: you know where this is going... if you're not a fan of such things, skip this one.

Okay, so if you're a regular follower of my snoop blog, by now you've probably read my post on the bull we slaughtered for my friend's wedding last January. You'll know it was a pretty intense process, with the trade-off being that over a hundred people were fed from the death of one animal.

This time it was different. He was the underdog, and with chickens running around justifying their place in the world as the cornerstone of the food chain and making themselves known as only a chicken can (hopping up on the table, knocking over your coffee, shitting in your bed), one felt as though this little guy's life could have been spared. But I digress.

As with most animals killed in El Salvador, I can safely say that it suffered; it's just how we do things here. I'd love to say it was quick and painless, like my rabbits, but it sort of wasn't. He was a fighter. But know that the little guy died a noble death so that a family of six, plus three friends and neighbors, could eat well on El Salvador's national independence day, September 15th.

Alright, let's get on with it, shall we?

So last weekend, my neighbors and I killed a seven pound armadillo and ate it. Not nearly as much a process as killing and prepping the bull, but still one that I found oddly intriguing. Fasten your seatbelts. I took photos...


For starters, they're amazing looking critters. Check him out. Cute little ears, a snouty nose, and of course a fascinating armor shell that was surprisingly warm and flexible, like leather. Thought he'd be more like a turtle.

To kill one, you pretty much break its neck, make a small cut and drain the blood for a good while, occasionally washing it away as it coagulates. One thing I found interesting was that the dogs, normally diving over each other to grab a scrap of whatever Orlando is hacking up, didn't even go near this thing. It must have had such a funky flavor that it spooked even them.




Like defeathering a chicken, you pour boiling water on him and scrape off his scales. They reminded me of fish scales. Almost translucent.




Once he's been scaled, you cut off his head and gut him.






A few hacks to split him in two.




A little salt, some lime, and onto the fire!


Kate's a huge fan of armadillo, or cuzuco as it's called here in the campo.




All in all, kind of awesome. Starting to believe that clichéd saying that everything tastes like chicken.


By the way, as I was writing this post, I googled armadillos and stumbled upon my new favorite animal...

Behold the smaller than your cell phone, semi-endangered Pink Fairy Armadillo of Argentina. Kind of want to carry one in my shirt pocket at all times... and probably eat less armadillos.

9.20.2010

Recently I had a chance to visit one of my volunteers up in his mountain-top community in northern Chalatenango. I remember pausing with him on a ridge and him pointing off into the distance, where a few specks of white poked through the canopy of trees and slowly moving clouds. That's the edge of my community, he said. And we were off.

Hiked for over an hour, almost entirely up. Crossed rivers, ducked under barbed wire, nearly fell off too many cliffs to count. But it was worth it. Clayton's off to a great start and will leave quite the mark on his community when his two years are up.

Early the next day, we hit the trail and hiked through the mountains to Malorie's community, just a hop skip and a jump over the mountains. That's a 30 minute hop, a 45 minute skip, and a 30 minute jump. But her host family is truly amazing and had a feast waiting for us when we arrived. Probably the biggest meal I've eaten in El Salvador. Soup, steak, coffee and quesadillas (sweet bread). I should mention, since it was a special occasion, we weren't eating your average steak. Nope, we were lucky enough to get pelibüey. I'll save you the trip to google translator. Sheep. Don't knock it til you tried it.

Sidenote: there's an unspoken, yet highly respected rule in Peace Corps that when you visit another volunteer's site, you immediately take on strict dietary restrictions, refuse a healthy amount of food you're offered, and speak as much junk spanish as possible. If you haven't picked up yet, this is all to make that volunteer seem like a rockstar, eating everything and dominating the language and culture like Jordan dominated the NBA cerca 1997. Like a jackass, I kind of violated that rule and devoured anything and everything they put in front of me. I did hike through the mountains of Chalate only minutes before! If you're reading this, sorry, chica. The good news is, Malorie is a rockstar volunteer and didn't need much help from me to prove it.

I had some time to kill that night at the hostel, so I put together a quick video of the experience.

Cameraman: Moi
Music: Caetano Veloso - Um Canto de Afoxe Para Bloco do Ile


Ps. Yes I know it's brazilian samba music, but the children's voices in the background reminded me so much of those of kids playing in every dirty, dusty community in this country, I couldn't resist.





9.13.2010

Back in the groove...

... yet wrapping things up.

I feel like this entry could go in any number of directions, so at the very least, I want to begin with a little light comedy, courtesy of one Mr. Aaron "Steve McQueen" Miller.

Buenos Aires Independent Film Festival: Tom Sellecks

With only 48 days left of my 1,000 here in El Salvador, I've come to a strange point in my Peace Corps experience. One that I'm at a loss for words to describe. Don't know why; I knew it was coming.

I'm happy, and overloaded with work, but in a good way, you know? Yet earlier tonight I actually got annoyed, not snapped, just felt a quick pang of peeve pass over me, with a good friend who repeatedly consoled me for what she kept calling my homesickness.

We had been chatting, and I mentioned how it's funny how the things you used to hate take on different meanings under different circumstances. Like how my neighbors' roosters - oh god those awful, goddamn roosters - I will actually miss when I'm no longer here. Yeah, I know. For those of you who've actually had the pleasure of staying at Casa de Cohen in the mountains of northwestern El Salvador, you must be amazed. Those guys probably kept you up or at least scared the shit out of you probably half a dozen times. But yeah, I'll miss hearing those little bastards, and the approaching wave of rooster crows coming from the next community over at 3 am or some other ungodly hour when I should be sleeping and not awake to hear such things.

Maybe what got to me was the dismissive tone of her voice; the way she didn't quite get what I was talking about, nor did it really concern her. Or that she assumed I couldn't wait to get back to the states. I don't know. It might be impossible for any volunteer to really convey how it feels to package up their life of two of three years in a community and move on to supposedly better and brighter things, while leaving their friends and family behind.

Or maybe things were just lost in translation; they often are.

But it's true. That realization that hits all volunteers at some point. That we only get one Peace Corps experience. And mine is just a few short weeks from ending.

9.09.2010

The rum diaries

During Aaron's last few days, we spent our time trying to outrun the rain which, we found out the hard way, is impossible to do.

The killer panoramic views, volcano and waterfall hikes, even the surfing were affected by the rains and general blahness caused by the hurricane.

The good news is, Aaron drinks. And the rain couldn't stop us from pueblo hopping, crashing at chill hostels, and going through bottles of rum like a couple of Australian backpackers flipping through a guidebook to Central America. In the short span of a week, we visited Panama, Guatemala and Nicaragua, over a few cubes of ice and a splash of lime.


Singing in the hurricane. Who needs sun when we can get equally blinded by the mildly hallucinogenic murals of Ataco?


Guns N Roses + Jesus with a dove = gringo confusion.


Aaron quickly got the hang of hitchhiking, the fastest and safest form of travel in El Salvador, and after a brutally humid, jam-packed, vendor filled bus ride to Tacuba, we both looked forward to returning to hanging precariously off the backs of speeding pickup trucks.


A few days at the beach. Sort of like the dessert after one hell of a meal.

9.01.2010

Off to a good start...

In the taxi from the airport.




Aaron's here this week, and as you can see, we're off to a good start...

A night in the capital, a decent amount of nicaraguan rum, and then off to my community.






Aaron buying 2 dollar flip flops in my nearby pueblo.


Prepping the firewood for dinner - bbq rabbit.

Thanks again, Adam, for the shipment of Sweet Baby Ray's!


Taking it all in.


Meeting my neighbors.


And my best bud, Cowboy Carlos.


Enjoying all that the campo has to offer.


It's gonna be a good week.